An interview with Eddie Zhao, founder of Gentlerist

We always love it when we get a visit from Eddie Zhao, the founder of Gentlerist (and, previously, co-founder of YÜLI). And we’re always curious about the questions that our visitors get while they’re at Ayla, so we asked Eddie if he noticed any common themes during his most recent visit to SF.

He said, “I had quite a few conversations with people wanting to minimize ‘fillers.’ They weren’t talking about injectables, but when I asked for specifics, everyone seemed to have a slightly different take: some wanted to avoid ingredients added just for fragrance or texture, while others were focused on a streamlined, effective routine without ‘extra’ steps that don’t bring much benefit.”

Intriguing, no? So of course, we responded, “Please, expand.” Thankfully, he did—here's what he told us.

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EDDIE:

I think the ambiguity around "filler" in skincare comes from differing interpretations. From a scientific standpoint, “fillers” are often considered ingredients that aren't “actives.” However, this can be a bit dismissive, as many so-called filler ingredients play important roles in stabilizing, enhancing, or preserving the formula to ensure it performs well.

From consultations I had at Ayla, here are a few ways customers framed the idea of fillers — and the questions they asked within those frames.

Filler ingredients that enhance a formula

Q: Are there “filler” ingredients that are included in a formula only to enhance the look or feel of a product?

A: Many people associate fillers with ingredients that don’t necessarily provide direct skin benefits, but that’s not always the case. Some ingredients, while not actives, play important roles in stabilizing and enhancing the formula. For instance, in Liquid Courage, Aloe Vera and probiotics are included to help the skin absorb more potent actives, like the three forms of clinical Vitamin C, more easily and gently. These ingredients also work to keep the skin barrier healthy, ensuring the formula can perform effectively without irritation. It’s about ensuring that every ingredient works in harmony to deliver the best results, enhancing the overall performance of the product.

Filler ingredients for sensory appeal

Q: "But aren’t some fillers just about making the product feel nicer?"

A: Absolutely, and while many skincare brands focus on creating products that have a strong sensory appeal, at Gentlerist, our priority is efficacy. We don’t rely on fragrance or texture or organoleptic properties to make our products appealing. Instead, we focus on delivering high-performance formulas that give you real results. By keeping the focus on what your skin actually needs—nourishment and rejuvenation—we avoid relying on sensory ingredients that don’t really provide direct skincare benefits. It’s all about providing solutions that truly support your skin's health.

Even high-performance formulas need "inactive" ingredients"

Q: "Why do even high-performance formulas need inactive ingredients?"

A: Even the most potent skincare formulas need balance. Take, for example, Dara Kennedy Sea Retinal. It contains only 0.1% Retinaldehyde, a potent form of Vitamin A. This concentration is balanced by other ingredients that help calm the skin and amplify performance, while ensuring that the Retinaldehyde is delivered effectively. While actives deliver targeted results, ingredients that might not seem exciting on their own—like emulsifiers or humectants—are essential for ensuring those actives are delivered effectively and can perform at their best.

In our Liquid Courage, a suite of ingredients and antioxidants helps stabilize and boost the formula, ensuring the Vitamin C complex works effectively without irritation. These supporting ingredients are essential for maintaining the formula's stability and maximizing its overall performance. 

Streamlining a routine to avoid unnecessary fillers

Q: “So, how can I streamline my routine and avoid unnecessary fillers?”

A: We've discussed a few ways to approach fillers in skincare, and the next step is figuring out what fits best with your routine. If you're thinking about simplifying your routine, try using the Hierarchy of Needs—start with the essentials and then layer on additional products only if they offer meaningful benefits.

Ayla Guides can also help you navigate ingredient lists, so you can choose products that focus on performance without unnecessary additives. At Gentlerist, we design our products with this in mind—ensuring that each formula serves a specific purpose and avoids superfluous ingredients, leaving you with a streamlined, effective routine that delivers results.

Ultimately, everyone’s skin needs and preferences are different, and having the vocabulary to understand what works best for you is the most empowering step. I hope this has been helpful in guiding you toward a more intentional, results-driven routine.

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Isn't Eddie great? We hope he'll visit us again soon! In the meantime, check out the Gentlerist collection here.