An interview with Eddie Zhao, founder of Gentlerist

Eddie, the founder of Gentlerist, has always been a bit of a mystery: this multi-talented, multi-hyphenate founder is constantly saying things like, “Oh, I was just in Japan for my production company,” or “Now that you mention it, I do have a sponsorship with Chanel in China.” What we’ve learned, though, is that while Eddie may be involved in projects that range from film production to financing to product formulation, he’s no dilettante. On the contrary, he’s one of the most thorough individuals we know.

Example 1: his preparation for the consultations he did at Ayla last fall. From a distance, we observed that he had taken multiple single-spaced pages of notes in advance of each one.

Example 2: his response to our recent, casual question, “What’s new about Liquid Courage and Modern Alchemist, your two newest releases from Gentlerist that had been cult favorites at YÜLI? And how do you approach reformulation in general?”

That response was so thorough that we thought it warranted its own blog post. Get all the juicy details below.

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Ayla: Moving from YÜLI to Gentlerist, how have you decided which products to (re)introduce and when — and what is your general approach with your reformulations?

EDDIE: As you might imagine, the biggest factor in our decision-making on product releases has been customer demand. Our long-time YÜLI customers have been incredibly vocal in asking for their favorite products to return, and we deeply value the ongoing conversations we have with them.

At Gentlerist, we view our relationship with customers as a continuous dialogue, where their feedback and us listening plays a crucial role in shaping what we do. As we shifted into the Gentlerist chapter, it was a bit like the Avengers snap—when half the population vanished. Our customers felt like so many of the products they loved were suddenly gone. Their persistence in wanting these back has helped us prioritize what comes back first.

When it comes to reformulations, we’ve been taking a gentle hand. Our focus is on not fixing what isn’t broken, but at the same time, looking at things with fresh eyes after over 10 years of these products being on the market. Many of the formulations have parts that are a bit “long in the tooth," and we've been working on updating them where needed. For example, adding Bakuchiol to the Bio-Retinol Complex was an obvious choice—it’s a natural progression in the formula. So, it’s really about honoring the essence of what we’ve always delivered to customers while updating with new innovations that keep the formulas as effective and cutting-edge as possible.

Ayla: We’re excited that Modern Alchemist is the latest reintroduction from Gentlerist!

EDDIE: We are beyond excited to reintroduce Modern Alchemist, one of our most beloved products, back into the lineup. It’s a true favorite among long-time customers, and we’re thrilled to finally make it available—especially as the colder weather sets in, when skin can really benefit from the extra nourishment and care that Modern Alchemist provides.

Ayla: What’s new and exciting about this formula?

EDDIE: Modern Alchemist has always been known for its nourishing, rejuvenating benefits, and we've worked hard to keep that at its core while making some exciting updates. The Bio-Retinol Complex has been enhanced with ingredients like Bakuchiol, pure Beta-Carotene, and Micro-Algae Extract to further boost skin regeneration, smooth fine lines, and promote collagen production—all without the irritation that’s typically associated with retinol.

And of course, we’ve kept the powerful actives that made the Bio-Retinol Complex special, such as Rosehip and Sea Buckthorn, which have always been key to this formula’s effectiveness.

We’ve also added Vitamin K2, which is especially beneficial for more mature skin types that often experience weaker circulation. In addition to its ability to revitalize the complexion and support circulation, Vitamin K2 is an incredibly important co-factor for many processes, including Vitamin D utilization. It also plays a vital role in improving capillary integrity, helping to enhance overall skin health and vitality, ultimately giving the skin a more vibrant and refreshed appearance.

The Omega-Lipid Complex is at the heart of Modern Alchemist's revolutionary revolumizing benefits. Facial aging is often associated with the loss of fat beneath the skin, leading to a decrease in volume and firmness. This complex helps counteract that effect by supporting and restoring skin density and volume.

In addition to the healthy fats from carefully formulated plant oils and extracts that have made it so effective, we’ve now strengthened this complex with ceramides, phospholipids, and plant cholesterol extract—bioidentical to the skin’s natural compounds, which is rare to see in a face oil, much less altogether. These additions help restore elasticity, boost skin density, enhance barrier function, revolumize, and improve overall resilience.

Q: How does Modern Alchemist compare to Gold Drops?

EDDIE: Beyond ingredient intricacies, I find that when it comes to face oils, there are generally two types of folks:

·       The first camp wants the benefits of a face oil—the nourishment and nutrition—without feeling like they're wearing an "oil." For them, Gold Drops, which functions like a topical multivitamin, is the perfect choice. It’s a rapid-absorbing, barely-there face oil that delivers skin nutrition while working from within to restore nourishment, and then it disappears, leaving a smooth, radiant finish.

·       The second camp enjoys the feeling of their face oil working like a weighted blanket—deeply nourishing, comforting, and satiating. This is where Modern Alchemist shines. It’s a richer, more luxurious texture that envelops the skin, providing intense nourishment and leaving you with a cozy, comforting finish.

Both oils are non-comedogenic and non-photo-toxic, so it really depends which camp you prefer. You can't really go wrong. In fact, it’s entirely possible for the same person to have both in their routine, depending on their needs. If you’re in a cold, dry climate, Modern Alchemist is ideal for its deep nourishment, while if you’re in a warmer environment, like our Texas HQ, Gold Drops offers that lightweight, yet still nourishing, feel.

AYLA: Next, can you tell us about the differences between the new and old Liquid Courage?

EDDIE: Liquid Courage has always been one of our most loved products, and we’ve made sure to keep the essence of the original formula intact. The oil component of the new bi-phase formula remains largely the same, maintaining the nourishing and high-potency benefits you’ve always loved, including the Antioxidant Seed Complex, THDA Vitamin C, and Black Garlic bioferment, which continue to offer antioxidant protection, promote collagen production, and enhance skin vitality.

Alongside the oil component, we’ve introduced the hydro-based layer, which enhances the formula’s overall performance. This innovation includes three stable, proven forms of Vitamin C that work together to provide even more potent antioxidant and skin-rejuvenating benefits:

·       THDA Vitamin C: From our original formula, this form of Vitamin C is classified in Japan and Korea as a pharmaceutical, clinically validated to be about 6x more effective than traditional Vitamin C in many regards, especially when it comes to brightening, evening the complexion, and stimulating collagen production.

·       L-Ascorbic Acid: The chiral form of the most scientifically documented Vitamin C, now stabilized for enhanced performance. These innovations mitigate irritation commonly associated with traditional Vitamin C while maintaining its rigorously documented, proven results.

·       Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP): A hydrating and soothing form of Vitamin C that works in a slower, gentler, and longer-term manner, making it exceptional at addressing environmental stressors.

While we’ve always included proven antioxidants like Ferulic Acid, Vitamin E, (and CoQ10) to enhance the synergy and performance of Vitamin C, we’ve now boosted this with a suite of new ingredients like Alpha Lipoic Acid—known for its superior synergy with Vitamin C—and Calcium PCA, which further enhances stability and absorption while soothing the skin.

To ensure the formula remains gentle on all skin types, we’ve included soothing ingredients like Aloe Vera Juice, Gotu Kola Extract, and probiotics, which help repair, calm, and balance the skin’s natural barrier.

The bi-phase serum texture offers both nourishment and hydration in a lightweight, milky emulsion, delivering potent antioxidants and ensuring your skin gets the protection it needs, to even those who may not have responded well to Vitamin C in the past.

In short, Liquid Courage is a powerful, clinical, and botanical antioxidant powerhouse that’s also exceptionally gentle and skin-friendly—a true antioxidant super serum.

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Check out the Gentlerist collection here, and learn more about the brand relaunch in our Gentlerist Brand Spotlight.