When budget-friendly skincare choices abound — and the prices of seemingly everything else (e.g., eggs) are skyrocketing — it's hard not to wonder, "Should I give those a go?" And, at the same time, "Is it really worth it to pay more for a skincare product?"

We thought this would be a great topic for one of our favorite founder-formulators to tackle. Dr. Pedro Catalá, armed with a PhD in Natural Product Formulation in addition to a Master's in Botany and a pharmacy degree, always has an opinion, and he graciously shares it here.

In recent years, the skincare market has exploded with affordable options that promise radiant skin without breaking the bank. The appeal of low-cost skincare is undeniable — budget friendly products that seem to offer everything from hydration to anti-aging benefits — and viral, with virtually every profile on social media recommending dupes and unboxing their latest low cost finds.

However, while the price tag is tempting, the hidden costs of these products are often overlooked.

From my perspective as a formulator, I wanted to give you the tools to make more informed decisions as you make your product choices. This is by far a crusade against these formulas or an effort to demonize certain ingredients. Instead, I’ll share a full breakdown of their hidden costs and explain why choosing cheaper skincare products may not always be the most cost-effective choice in the long run.

1. It’s easy to hide lower quality ingredients 

As a formulator, when you go to ingredient fairs, you might see the exact same type of oil (which means it will be shown by the same name on the ingredient label) for a tenth of the price of the better-quality one. Low-cost skincare products often rely on these cheaper, mass-produced ingredients, which can be less effective or potentially harmful to the skin.

Take, for instance, the ever-popular niacinamide: the purest version is quite expensive. A cheaper version is also available, but this type leaves nicotinic acid residue on the skin, a remnant that is responsible for the flushing often associated with niacinamide.

Impurities, in general, can propel the oxidation of some natural ingredients, too. As a result, those ingredients may not provide the benefits that consumers are looking for, and in some cases, they could cause irritation or allergic reactions.

High-end skincare brands, on the other hand, tend to use more plant-based oils or antioxidants, which are better for skin health. When consumers choose lower-cost alternatives, they may miss out on the real benefit of ingredients that actually nourish and benefit their skin.

2. Short-term savings, long-term consequences

The initial savings from purchasing budget skincare may feel rewarding, but these savings often in fact lead to unnecessary spending and skin frustration.

For example, a person might purchase a cheap moisturizer that doesn’t hydrate their skin properly. They may then need to buy a separate serum or toner, or switch to another moisturizer to get the desired effect — eventually spending more money than they would have on a single high-quality product that would have better addressed their skincare needs.

High performing ingredients are expensive and have a direct impact on the final price, but I find that they are worth it for the end result on the skin.

3. Environmental impact of both formulas & packaging

Many budget brands rely on ingredients that are harmful to the planet and use cheap, non-recyclable packaging. The excess use of non-biodegradable materials that contribute to pollution cannot be overlooked, and it can have harmful results to the user of the product, too.

For example, while studying for my PhD at the University of Siena, I was commissioned to formulate a mascara. The formula was finalized, with all the stability data and required safety tests complete. But, once the product was launched, users started to experience conjunctivitis.

The client complained to me immediately, but I remained calm since the results from the exhaustive testing were complete and verified. It turned out that the inexpensive applicator of the product that the company chose to use in its packaging was contaminated with a very strange bacteria that was extremely difficult to get rid of. The cost of withdrawing the product for the market and the damage to the brand was unheard of. It was a very “mamma mia” moment, but turned sour due to the choice of cheaper packaging.

4. Risk of skin damage

Cheap skincare products are often formulated without consideration for sensitive skin. I am aware that everything is a potential irritant, even the purified water used everywhere, but some fillers may strip the skin of its natural oils, leading to dryness, sensitivity, or an increased risk of allergic reactions. I came across a case recently of a budget exfoliator that contained both abrasive particles and high concentrations of acid, leading to micro-tears in the skin as well as over-exfoliation, leaving skin more vulnerable to sun damage and irritation.

5. Underestimating the Product’s Value

When consumers purchase low-cost skincare, there’s often an unconscious bias that the product is less valuable or effective simply because it’s inexpensive.

Because the price is low, there's a tendency to overlook the proper usage instructions or the need for consistency in using the product. When you don't take the product seriously, you're less likely to use it regularly, and skincare (especially products designed to treat hyperpigmentation or fine lines) often requires consistent use over time to see results.

My final thoughts

The hidden costs of low-cost skincare are often overlooked, but they can add up after awhile. By not taking cheap skincare seriously and failing to use it consistently, consumers miss out on the benefits they hoped to gain in the first place. Ultimately, prioritizing quality over price can save you from long-term skin damage and unnecessary expenses. When it comes to skincare, it’s important to remember that sometimes, spending a little more up front can actually save you more in the end.

- Pedro

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Pedro's own products are beautifully formulated with high-quality ingredients...and they still boast very reasonable prices. Check out the TWELVE lineup here.